Building the Little 383 Small Block That Could

[sealer]

[powerjames]

Originally Posted by cordezzy

Engine Block: 4 Bolt Main
*Eagle 383 kit
Crank: Eagle 383
Rods: Eagle I Beam
Pistons: Speed-Pro 30 over

*Edelbrock 435hp kit
Heads: Edelbrock E-Tec 170
Cam: Edelbrock
Manifold: Edelbrock Air Gap

Rocker Arms: Crane Cam Gold 1.5
Carb: Speed Demon
Distributer/Ignition: MSD
Balancer: TCI Rattler
Flywheel: RAM
Timing Chain: Edelbrock Hex-A-Just
Oil Pan: Milodon

Thanks to you guys, I changed from Crane Cam Energizer to Gold, I wasn't brave enough to try the 1.5/1.6, and changed my Timing Chain to a Hex-a-just.

Sounds like a great combination.

Please keep us updated on the build. How much have you invested money wise?

[cordezzy]

Originally Posted by DollaDollaBill

Was that an Edelbrock Timing kit or a Cloyes Timing kit you got? And was that an Edelbrock Cam or a Crane Cam you got. I was not too sure on that.

Tell us more as you progress through the build. Give us pictures and video if you can. That would be really cool.

I got the HEX A Just Edelbrock timing kit. and the Edelbrock cam. the Crane Cam are my rockers.

[cordezzy]

Originally Posted by powerjames

Sounds like a great combination.

Please keep us updated on the build. How much have you invested money wise?

Just got my block back from the machine shop and going to start on it this week. I have invested about $7,600.

[cordezzy]

hey guys i was wondering wat size push rods u used

[powerjames]

Originally Posted by cordezzy

hey guys i was wondering wat size push rods u used

I don't know, but I'll have BJ contact you asap with an answer.

[Bobby Kbro]

We used the stock style and length pushrods that came with the Edelbrock Power Package. Unless you're building a serious race engine that will be turning really high rpm's (over 7,500) the stock style pushrods will do fine. However (and this is important), if you have done any work to the block (like decking the block) you need to double and triple check the rocker arm geometry.

The contact patch of the rocker arm should be near center on the valve tip. If the contact patch is close to the inside edge on your first check on the intake valve, the push rod is most likely too short. Likewise, if it is too close to the outside edge, the push rod is most likely too long.

So.....we used the stock length push rod, but that doesn't mean that everyone should. We were lucky and only needed some "clean up" on our block deck. If your block deck surface is milled, you really should take a very close look at your valve train geometry.

I hope that answers your question.....and then some.

[cordezzy]

Thank You!

Originally Posted by Bobby Kbro

We used the stock style and length pushrods that came with the Edelbrock Power Package. Unless you're building a serious race engine that will be turning really high rpm's (over 7,500) the stock style pushrods will do fine. However (and this is important), if you have done any work to the block (like decking the block) you need to double and triple check the rocker arm geometry.

The contact patch of the rocker arm should be near center on the valve tip. If the contact patch is close to the inside edge on your first check on the intake valve, the push rod is most likely too short. Likewise, if it is too close to the outside edge, the push rod is most likely too long.

So.....we used the stock length push rod, but that doesn't mean that everyone should. We were lucky and only needed some "clean up" on our block deck. If your block deck surface is milled, you really should take a very close look at your valve train geometry.

I hope that answers your question.....and then some.

[Bobby Kbro]

yeah man, no problem.
Let us know how it goes on your build.

[cordezzy]

I was finally able to finish my engine. Hopefully I can get it in the car this weekend. Here are some pictures...